Avoiding Purchasing Pitfalls: Deposits
By Barbara French

If there is one area where relations between breeders and buyers tend to break down, it's in the financial nitty-gritty of the actual transfer of the cat or kitten. This is the number one area of complaints about listed breeders. The vast majority of the time, the problem is not that the breeder is trying to pull one over on the buyer or trying to defraud them purposefully. The most common cause of problems is misunderstandings or differing interpretations of the terms of the sale.

Pedigreed cats can be a large-ticket item, particularly when buying unusual breeds or breeder cats. Pet quality kittens, depending on the breed and location, can range from a couple hundred to a few thousand dollars. There are a whole range of complexities to consider because cats are not manufactured goods and cannot be "made to order" like a tailored shirt.

DEPOSITS

A deposit is a sum of money, usually a percentage of the sale price of a kitten or cat, to reserve that animal for future sale to the person making the deposit. A deposit makes sense because while the breeders are holding the kitten for you, so they are not free to sell it to someone else. It's like guaranteeing a hotel room with a credit card, or putting an advance deposit on a car you want to buy. Deposits are a common practice in many different businesses.

Many breeders maintain verbal waiting lists and do not require deposits to hold kittens. This is a bit risky for the breeder, as they may be holding kittens for people who will buy other kittens in the meantime or will change their minds without letting the breeder know. Most breeders who do this avoid problems simply by staying in close contact with those who wish to purchase their kittens.

Some breeders take advance deposits against unborn kittens. This will usually guarantee you a position on a waiting list. Some breeders only begin taking deposits on kittens once they know what they have in the litter.

However, depending on how picky you are about what you are looking for, a deposit cannot guarantee that you will get what you are looking for. The more specific your request, the more likely it is that you may need to exercise some patience to get it. A person looking for a pet-quality Maine Coon of any color or gender will likely get their wishes filled faster than someone looking for a pet quality male blue classic tabby and white Maine Coon.

Some breeders will refund their deposits on request. Others will only refund deposits under specific circumstances. Still others will not refund deposits at all.

Many people believe that non refundable deposits are illegal and unethical. In truth, non refundable deposits are legal and practiced by many different businesses for various reasons. It is perhaps more clear to refer to them as a "fee" that can be applied toward the purchase of an animal.

Whether non refundable deposits are ethical is a matter of personal opinion. Some breeders only do non refundable deposits because they have had a bad series of experiences with people changing their minds and ending up with older kittens that are harder to sell. Some breeders feel that if the deposit is non refundable, the people will take the sale more seriously.

The most common type of deposit is a partially refundable deposit. This usually means that the deposit is not refundable if the potential owner changes his/her mind about wanting the kitten, but is refundable if the kitten desired becomes unavailable for some reason (desired type was not born, kitten dies or becomes ill, kitten turns out to be high quality and the breeder prefers to keep the kitten for the breeding program, travel arrangements don't work out).

Other breeders offer a fully refundable deposit, meaning that the deposit will be returned in full if either party changes their minds about the sale.

It is very important, BEFORE putting down a deposit on an animal, that you make sure you know the following information:

- if the deposit is refundable or non refundable
- if the deposit is refundable if you (they buyer) change your mind
- if the deposit is not refundable if you change your mind, what circumstances must occur to receive a refund

If this is not all available in writing, you may wish to write this information down yourself and get the breeder to sign it or agree to it in an e-mail. Keep all this information.

It goes without saying that you should always get a receipt for your deposit for the amount you actually put down. I have had a couple issues over the years with buyers receiving receipts for incorrect amounts (usually much lower than what was paid) and then being told "Oh, don't worry, I know what you paid". Insist on a proper receipt.

Never put down a deposit for a cat or kitten in cash. Always put down a deposit with some instrument that will create a record, such as a personal check, bank check, or credit card (ask if the breeder accepts credit cards or PayPal; more and more breeders are accepting PayPal now).

If you are mailing your deposit, send it certified mail/return receipt requested. That way you have a record of the deposit arriving safely. Make sure to include a nice note to the breeder and a polite request for a receipt.

In summary, here are the steps to a deposit without misunderstandings:

1. Clarify whether the deposit is refundable or non refundable. If it is refundable, clarify the circumstances under which the deposit can be refunded. Do not buy a kitten if you are not willing to abide by the terms of the deposit agreement or think the terms are unfair.

2. If the breeder does not offer a deposit agreement in writing, create one of your own to clarify expectations and have the breeder view, agree to, and sign if possible.

3. When you pay the deposit, pay in a method that creates an outside record. If you are mailing the deposit, send it certified mail, return receipt requested to make sure it arrived at its destination safely.

4. Go out and buy a lot of cat toys for your expected arrival.

Remember ... ethical, responsible breeders will not object to your desire to make things very clear between you. A breeder who gives you problems at this stage probably isn't someone you are going to want to work with. If they complain about wanting to keep the deposit agreement clear between you now, how likely are they going to be to want to help solve problems if they crop up later?

Why Pedigree, Pet Kittens Cost So Much
By Liz Hansen
Note: this was written in 1999 and the costs associated are substantially greater for many things listed

People see that pedigreed, pet kittens are sold for $550 or more and assume that breeders must be making a profit. It's hard to understand how expensive breeding is without actually trying it. Reputable breeders will NEVER make money, this is a hobby.
I hope this outline will provide insight to pet owners who question prices & profits of breeders.

I. GETTING STARTED
When one decides they want to breed, they will usually have been the owner and exhibitor of a show alter (pet). We began breeding after 2+ years of showing, networking and learning about Maine Coon Cats. I’ve found this experience essential to have reputable breeders willing to work with you. Many people buy and show an alter from a local breeder, develop the desire to breed and that same breeder then becomes their mentor and possibly supplier of the first breeding cat. Not a necessity, but typically the case. The same applies to finding a stud (stud service see section C).

Expense #1: one year of prior networking (showing minimum $1500 and purchasing at least one spayed/neutered pet kitten to show at $550).

To purchase at least one very good female kitten with breeding rights from an established breeder, the prior networking is essential. Reputable breeders will not sell a cat with breeding rights to someone new to the world of pedigree cats. So after time is spent showing an alter, finding a female (queen) who is registered and has an excellent pedigree can still be a task. In addition, the queen needs to be an outstanding example of her breed, absolutely sound and cosmetically much better than pet quality. Outstanding examples of the breed don't grow on trees and so the price of a breeding queen is much higher than a pet quality kitten.

Expense #2: one female kitten with breeding rights, $600 to $1500. (editor note: or much more... to the tune of 2500 nowdays)

Next, every time a breeder buys a new kitten or cat for breeding she must make certain that cat is healthy and won't transmit any diseases, parasites, or genetic defects to the kittens (or to other cats already living in the home). The veterinary testing includes a physical exam, stool exam for parasites, and blood tests (FIV, feline leukemia). When you start with a kitten, that baby will need its annual vaccinations, at least rabies, in addition to the testing. Additionally, if the breeder hasn’t done so, I microchip all of my cats.

Expense #3: Initial, Routine veterinary health screening and, micro-chipping about $125.

The new breeder must both purchase an excellent stud and build him stud quarters, or he/she must locate a breeder with an excellent stud who is willing to provide stud service. A responsible stud owner will want to protect her stud from possible exposure to disease. Therefore, even though you had a thorough vet exam of your queen when you first bought her, you will probably be asked to repeat at least the blood tests and show the test results to the stud owner prior to each and every breeding. Also, most stud owners will ask that the queen come to the male’s home for breeding. That means travel, food for the cats and further expense.

Expense #4: stud service and further health testing of queen, at least $600 per breeding. It's MORE expensive and much more work to keep your own stud, so this cost is assuming you can find a good stud to use.

The breeder must pay to register their cattery name with at least one cat association ($50 for CFA and $50 to TICA), must register their new breeding queen ($15), and must register each litter produced ($10to each association). There will be at least one litter per year and at least one kitten kept and registered per year thereafter. In TICA, there are also membership dues to belong to a breed group. This cost is $35/year.

Expense #5: registration fees, at least $155 the first year and at least $65 per year thereafter.

The breeder must buy two or three textbook type reference books to help her learn what she needs to know about making breeding decisions, veterinary screening, genetic screening, rearing kittens, caring for females in heat, caring for pregnant and lactating females, common feline diseases, feline nutrition, and much more. Visiting the library is not sufficient because the library is unlikely to have books that are up-to-date on feline husbandry - or may not have books on that topic at all.

I also participated in Cornell’s Feline Genetics Course, on-line, $375.

Expense #6: reference books/classes, about $500 the first year and at least $25 per year thereafter.

The breeder needs special equipment to rear litters of kittens. At a minimum, the breeder needs a heating pad safe for kittens to keep them warm ($40). Hypothermia is the leading cause of death of young kittens. Also needed are clean rags for bedding and disinfectants ($20), feeding tubes and feeding syringes for weak or sick kittens ($5), KMR kitten formula (there is a kitten who needs supplementation or who threatens to need it in almost every litter, $20), cardboard kittening box (cheap), at least two small litter pans for built for kittens ($15), an accurate scale to weigh kittens every day ($15 to $100), first aid and kitten delivery kit (latex gloves, betadine, kaopectate, millions of paper towels, eyedroppers, etc., about $30).

Expense #7: kitten rearing equipment, about $145 to $230 for first litter and at least $30 for every subsequent litter.

The breeder needs to advertise kittens, promote her cattery, promote her breed, and network with other breeders. Advertising of kittens can be done various ways, but will cost an absolute minimum of $100 per year if you are very lucky. Most catteries now have as their primary form of advertisement, a webpage. These can be professional or not. A professionally designed site can run upwards of $500.(editors note: a breeder pays 100 for a year of advertising on this site alone)

Breed promotion and networking is not only to help the breeder advertise long-term, but to altruistically help the breed, to enhance the breeder’s education, and to provide the breeder with contacts that will help him/her achieve breeding goals far into the future. To do these things a breeder must join at least one cat association and at least one breeder's club at a cost of about $50 per year in dues.

Our primary advertising is done in person at cat shows and on our website.

Expense #8: advertising, breed promotion, networking, about $160 per year minimum.

The breeder must have a sales contract and other cattery forms, a cattery brochure with which to answer written inquiries, business cards, and must take photos of breeding cats and all kittens for cattery documentation, advertising, and other purposes. The breeder must make many phone calls, including long distance phone calls, as a courtesy in returning calls received from kitten clients and even those merely curious about the breed. The breeder must also do long-term follow-up on every kitten sold, telephoning new owners regularly to answer questions and nip problems in the bud. All these forms of communication come at a cost that is hard to estimate accurately, but I would say at least of $50 per year. Luckily, with the advent of the worldwide web, email saves time and money towards communication.

Expense #9: forms, phone calls, and other modes of communication, about $50/year.

Reputable breeders can be found exhibiting their cats at (a minimum of) a few cat shows per year. Showing your cats is a tool used to verify you are producing pedigree cats that meet the breed standard. Entering one cat into a single show, in TICA, runs at least $60. In addition, there is almost always travel involved. Driving 3-4 hours is an average distance to attend a show; therefore 1-2 gallons of gas ($50), hotel for two nights ($120) and food ($50) are the minimum expenses. Not to mention supplies such as shampoos, cages, combs, etc..

Expense #10: Showing, supplies and the travel associated with, a min. of $2000/year.

II. MAINTENANCE OF ADULT CATS
Food, litter, routine veterinary bills, and other basic maintenance costs will vary depending on the quality of the food and litter, the number of toys and special furniture items purchased for the cat(s) and more. It costs more than $500 per year to maintain one healthy adult cat - and it can average as much as $2000 per cat per year, especially as cats age.

Expense #11: Routine care for breeding cats (lets say just one queen) and a couple of pets (remember those you purchased as show alters?!), $500/cat/year x 4cats = $2000

II. THE COSTS PER LITTER
Even once you have the kittening equipment and other overhead expenses taken care of, there are additional costs incurred per litter. They include:
Queen must be vaccinated right before she is bred or in some cases during the pregnancy. That's at least $20. We also test our cats for FIV & Feline Leukemia prior to every breeding. Those tests run $35. In addition, our breeding cats are screened for HCM (Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy) & HD (Hip Dysplasia). The HCM screening is done annually, at $200. The screening for HD is done at least once in the cat’s breeding career at runs $360.

Expense #12: Essential Veterinarian Care/Assessment, $615 per cat

Queen will eat up to twice as much as usual during her pregnancy and up to three times as much as usual while she is nursing the kittens. She needs special premium quality food that is approved for pregnancy and lactation. That is two 6-ounce cans per day for 9 weeks of pregnancy and 3 cans per day for at least 8 weeks of lactation. Each can costs about 50 cents for premium food, so that is 63 days X $1.00 + 56 days X $1.50 = $147.00.

Expense #13: Feeding the queen, $147 per litter

Kittens can die within hours if they don't get enough to eat because of a feeding problem. So you need to keep emergency formula, feeding tubes, and feeding syringes on hand. The formula needs to be purchased fresh nearly every time you have a litter, so that's $20 per litter.

Expense #14: Formula, $20

The kittens will begin to eat solid food at age 4-6 weeks and will be eating almost entirely solid food at age 8 weeks. At age 8 weeks, each kitten eats about two 3-ounce cans per day of premium food rated for growing kittens and will eat perhaps 1/8 cup of dry premium kitten food each day. What they don't eat, they spill soil, scatter, or play with until it must be discarded. The kittens will stay with the breeder usually until age 12 weeks - and sometimes for much longer. So that's a minimum of 3 cans X 4 weeks X 55 cents per can = $46. Then the dry food adds up to 1/8 cup X 5 kittens X 55 days = 34.4 cups. So that's about three 8-lbs bag of premium kitten food per litter, at $15.00 each.

Expense #15: Total food for kittens is $46 + $45 = $91.

The kittens will require three vaccinations, the first when their eyes open, a second at 6 weeks, one at age 9 weeks and a final at 12 weeks. Those cost $10 each if the vet does it or $3 each if the breeder does it. So that's five kittens X 4 vaccinations X $10 per vacc = $200, or alternatively it is $30 if the breeder does his/her own vaccinations.

Expense #16: For our average litter, of five, vaccinations can run as low as $30 (breeder providing) or as high as $200 (if the vet is providing them).

We spay each female kitten prior to adoption. We believe this is responsible breeding that prevents new owners from unintentionally failing to spay kittens in time to prevent accidental litters. Breeders aim to preserve their breeds but they also wish to avoid adding to the numbers of homeless cats on the streets and in shelters. The discounted rate, with our vet, averages $125.00 per kitten X two kittens = $250. NOTE: The reason there are only two kittens spayed, and not five, is because the breeder nearly always keeps one kitten from each litter to see if it will have potential as a future breeding or show cat. The neuter cost for the males is not factored in because our male kittens are placed on an altering agreement. In the Maine Coon Cats, there is question as to whether early neutering in males causes harm later in life (with hips) so we don’t take the chance and require proof of neutering between 7-12 months before giving the registration papers to the owners.

Expense #17: Spaying female kittens prior to placement, $250

In virtually all litters there is at least one kitten who during his 12 weeks living with the breeder requires veterinary attention due to an umbilical infection, failure to thrive normally, getting poked in the eye, falling off a table the wrong way, developing an upper respiratory infection, developing a minor eye infection during the period when the eyes are starting to open, needing a re-examination after neutering, being born with a minor birth defect, developing a mysterious limp, swallowing a foreign object, or many other possible calamities. Kittens are like small human children. They have a talent for getting themselves into scrapes or picking up bugs. The veterinary costs typically vary from a $35 exam (to be on the safe side) to $300 emergency surgery or treatment (off-hours).

Expense #18: A vet visit for a minor problem with a kitten, $35

Occasionally, the queen requires a C-section to deliver her kittens or may require treatment after the birth of the kittens due to diarrhea, intestinal obstruction, mastitis, hemorrhaging, uterine infection, or other complications. The costs associated with treating these problems may run up to $1000 for an emergency off-hours C-section. Also, if C-section is required up to half of the litter may die due to side effects of the anesthesia. Kittens may also be lost due to the effects of complications on the queen's milk production.
Our first litter was taken by C-section and it ran us $300. Two of the six kittens were alive.

(Possible) Expense #19: C-section, minimum $300

The queen will require at least one precautionary prenatal or prenatal veterinarian examination, $35.00. In addition to the exam, we perform an ultrasound ($125) and/or X-rays ($75) to determine pregnancy and the number of kittens. This is done for every litter we have.

Expense #20: Prenatal Veterinarian Assessments $110

The litter must be registered and the one kitten who is kept must be individually registered with both TICA & CFA, $20.00.

Expense #21: Registration, $20

You must replenish, repair, replace some of the kittening equipment each litter (see part I), $30.

Expense #22: Supplies, $30

Each of our kittens is checked by our veterinarian (usually free of charge), microchipped ($30), given a health certificate (also free of charge) and tested for FIV & FeLV ($30). $60 per kitten. Not all breeders do this.
(Possible) Expense #23: Exam, microchip, health certificate and blood test, $60 x 5 = $300.

If you’re keeping track, these are the costs to get started (including acquiring and caring for alter pet(s) and a single queen for one year) and produced the FIRST litter, in best case scenario where all goes well, a C-section is NOT needed, and the breeder does her own vaccinations = $10003 (and that doesn’t even include cat litter!)

IV. INCOME FROM ONE LITTER OF KITTENS
If the breeder keeps one kitten and sells four, the income is 4 X $550 = $2200

Wow…that $550 per kitten is spent very fast… $10003 - $2200 = $-7803
That’s much less than our first year losses, since our queen developed a uterine infection during her first pregnancy, needed a C-section for the second, and we had only one kitten (one we kept) to sell.

**And, do remember that due to the occasional accident of nature, you may also end up with a kitten with a special health or behavioral problem, to which you must give a lifetime of love and good care or sell at a reduced cost (usually that means for free).

V. ECONOMIES OF SCALE?
Well, you say, maybe if a breeder buys more than one breeding queen and starts raising more litters per year, THEN a profit can be made.
Unfortunately, it turns out that with cats the more breeding cats, the higher the cost climbs.

First of all, there won't be a best-case scenario with all the litters produced by every cat; breeders are usually more in debt from some cats than others. A percentage of the breeding cats purchased will also turn out to be unbreedable, die unexpectedly, develop pyometra or have their reproductive lives cut short.

As the number of cats climbs beyond one or two, it becomes nearly impossible to continue using stud service. Multiple queens can't ALL be shipped long distances on a regular basis. Also, the stud service provider may be unable to offer the stud services needed when the queens are in season. They have cats of their own which need breeding.

So a stud is purchased. That means special stud housing that will cost at least several hundred dollars in materials and several hundred more in equipment (e.g., special cleanable surfaces, cat tree(s) and other niceties for the studhouse). Now the stud must be maintained year-round whether he is siring litters or not.

If multiple queens have been purchased, problems may arise with them all co-existing. In some cases, an unhappy cat can be confined to a room, separate from the stud quarters, or she may just need to be spayed and adopted out to keep the peace.

Usually, breeders find home remodeling a necessity. With multiple breeding cats and several litters of kittens born per year, separate rooms are needed to isolate not only a stud, but young fragile litters. Cleanable, bleachable surfaces are essential for disinfecting because having litters around all the time greatly increases the risk of infectious disease. It becomes extremely difficult to keep carpets clean in a house of multiple cats, especially with young ones underfoot all the time, and is why many breeders choose to replace the carpets with Pergo or tile or similar cleanable surface. Old furniture is also usually replaced with furniture that is easily to clean and doesn’t show wear.

Yes, it is possible to keep a home sanitary and odorless when having multiple healthy and happy breeding cats, but it requires money and time.
With multiple cats and multiple litters there will, despite the best of vaccination and quarantine systems, occasionally be epidemics. These may be minor or they may be serious, but they always mean large vet bills. It's very much like running a day-care center full of young children who succumb to every new virus and bug that's out there. A common, minor case of upper respiratory running through the house will cost at least $50 in antibiotics for everyone. Another common, yet worse, case is ringworm in a cattery. Good breeders, even with excellent sanitation in the cattery, occasionally bring infectious disease home from cat shows, the vets, etc…to properly treat ringworm, all cats in contact with the infected cat should not only be cultured, but treated over a long period of time. Proper treatment will last months (at the least) and cost thousands of dollars. Additionally, the cattery must be “closed” which means no cat or kitten can leave during the infected time. A breeder recently quoted her costs to properly treat and test at $10000.

So why do breeders bother to breed multiple cats and litters? Because they want to keep the breed going and also hopefully improve the breed. Accomplishments are small when breeding only one cat.

And why is it worth the money? Because we love our cats more than our money (which is a good thing because after all of those expenses there isn’t much).

Determining Reputability of a Breeder
by Brigitte McMinn

The defining difference between that of a Reputable Breeder and a “kitten producer” is the concern and the responsibility the person shows towards his/her breed, breeding program, fellow breeders, and his/her individual charges; cats/kittens and purchasers thereof.
# The Reputable Breeder spends large amounts of time and money on that which he/she believes to be for the best interest of the breed, the cats and those directly and indirectly affected by his/her actions.
# The Reputable Breeder sees his/her breeding program as an unfinished work, a creative masterpiece that drives him/her towards excellence and perfection. Whereas, the “kitten producer” is motivated by profit. While the “kitten producer” is happy to sell quantity to whomever; dealers, brokers, ... the reputable breeder insists on individual contact with each prospective owner and will only place a kitten after careful and thorough screening.

Direct contact is necessary in order to insure a mutual compatibility between the would be purchaser, the cat/kitten and him/herself. Because of this great concern on the part of the reputable breeder, he/she will help the novice purchaser select the cat/kitten that is compatible with their lifestyle, personality and expectations, even if it means talking them out of a cat/kitten. Screening is necessary to ensure a successful placement and this is foremost with the reputable breeder.
# The Reputable Breeder is concerned with pedigrees and the breed standard is of utmost importance to his goal for excellence and the betterment of the breed. Because of the goal of betterment in mind, NEVER would this breeder think to breed without knowing the pedigree or without holding the papers qualifying the dam and the sire as breeder quality. A reputable breeder will own the right to breed, the papers proving such,& will have the pedigree of his/her cats as well. This breeder is willing and able to educate and be educated, has a willingness to answer questions correctly and cares about the concerns of the potential new owner. He/she will allow visits to see the mother and if available, the father, and kittens in their environment when it is feasibly safe to do so. The “kitten producer” may offer seemingly good reasons to meet in places with available kittens other then the raised environment.
# The Reputable Breeder insists on contracts and requires that the cat/kitten be returned to him/her if for any reason the purchaser is unable to keep the pet. It is this breeder who shows responsibility to the breed, and the cats/kittens they have “created” for the lifetime of this pet. Health records, pedigrees and care information are a source of great pride to the breeder that is reputable as well as a sanitary, clean, healthy and happy environment.
# The Reputable Breeder is excited at the prospect of furthering his/her education through breed clubs, cat shows, seminars and will take advantage of available resources. This reputable breeder tends to live around their cats/kittens. Every opportunity to participate in activities with other reputable breeders ensuring them that their breeding program compares to others within their breed group is looked upon favorably by this reputable breeder.
# The Reputable Breeder realistically understands that sometimes things go wrong but, he/she maintains a responsibility to the situation, if it is within his/her power, they do what is needed to rectify a problem fairly. The reputable breeder does not abandon a situation.

The Ten Commandments of The Reputable Breeder

   1. The Reputable Breeder places cats/kittens by contract.
   2. The Reputable Breeder places cats/kittens with a health guarantee.
   3. The Reputable Breeder insists and contracts the return of a cat/kitten should the purchaser be unable to keep the cat/kitten.
   4. The Reputable Breeder carefully interviews prospective owners and has specific requirements that are to be met IE; cat/kitten is to be altered if the breeder is not already practicing early altering, cat/kitten is not allowed to roam outdoors, etc.
   5. The Reputable Breeder is willing and able to educate the novice. He/she happily answers any/all questions regarding the breed and his/her breeding program.
   6. The Reputable Breeder insists on being informed of any health, genetic, or behavioral problems the cat/kitten may develop in it’s lifetime.
   7. The Reputable Breeder does not have more cats/kittens then he/she is able to keep clean, healthy and well socialized.
   8. The Reputable Breeder spends individual time with each of his cats/kittens.
   9. The Reputable Breeder is very concerned with excellent temperament in his/her cats/kittens as well as excellent health.
  10. The Reputable Breeder makes him/herself available for advice and help to other breeders, and throughout the life of the cats/kittens he/she has placed.

This is not meant to say that these are the only determining factors of a Reputable Breeder.

Looking for a Good Cat Breeder?

Besides going to cat shows, many breeders now have their own websites. You may also want to look for a breeder through one of the major cat registration associations. Two of the largest, The Cat Fanciers' Association (CFA) and The International Cat Association (TICA) are good ones to start with.

However, keep in mind that just because a breeder belongs to a cat club or one of the major cat associations can mean very little.  Nearly anyone can do this, if they have registered/pedigree cats. We believe there are additional factors you should consider when adopting a pedigree cat, or researching a breeder

# Consider every communication you have to/from the breeder.Your first contact with a breeder may be via phone, fax, letter or e-mail. It is important to assess every communication you receive from the breeder. It can indicate more about them than you might think. Does the written communication evoke a feeling that they care about their animals, and would want to work with you? Does the breeder invite you to visit their home/cattery? While it is often ideal to purchase a pedigreed animal from a local breeder where you can actually go see their facilities and meet them and their animals face-to-face, you can also learn much more about a breeder by talking to other people. Don't be afraid to ask the breeder for references and check around with other breeders (maybe drop them an email) asking about the breeder you are considering. Ask other breeders if they would buy a pet from them.

# Many reputable, established breeders don't have kittens available at all times.  They might also have a waiting list.
Do keep in mind that most reputable, established breeders do not have kittens available most of the year.  They might also have waiting lists for their kittens. Be very careful about catteries which always seem to have lots of kittens available for sale -- chances are, this cattery is either having difficulty placing their kittens (this should be a red flag to prospective buyers) or they produce too many kittens, also a red flag. It's a good idea to ask outright about a cattery's waiting list, and about their deposit policies.  Realize some breeders may have kittens only once a year so be patient, this isn't a bad sign.

# How many cats are in their home, and were you able to see them all?
Too many cats should be a red flag, regardless of the conditions.  Too many cats means there is NO possible way all of the cats and kittens get individual attention on a regular basis.  It is simply impossible.  Regardless of how much affection you see them give the cats while visiting, your mind probably questions that too many cats seems a bit ridiculous. you're right.  Realize that a breeders will always have more cats than the average person, but keep reality in perspective.

Kittens should be raised around all the daily activities of people, in their bedrooms, kitchen, around TVs, etc...some cats may be confined (such as whole males), but good breeders have a large place/room for the boys where they each have access to a window at any given time and enough room to jump and play, some even have TVs for their entertainment!

And, if their house is spotless consider how much time that takes, and what that takes away from the attention the cats get.  We aren't saying that clean houses are not possible, but we believe it is just as important that the home is well kept/sanitary, has less than a few dozen cats and all the cats appear healthy.  Runny noses and eyes are not typical of a good cattery, however any cattery can have a cold run through it too, just like your family can.

# "Standard "things" a breeder should do

   1. Not let kittens leave until at least 12 weeks of age
   2. Fully vaccinate all of their cats, not just the kittens
   3. Give you a copy of the receipt from the vet, showing that they truly have been seen by a vet and vaccinated.  Stating on your contract that they've been is not proof.
   4. Provide you with a contract, that guarantees the kittens' health for a period of time, has a no declawing policy and an indoor only agreement.  Additionally, it should clearly state that at any time if you can no longer have the cat/kitten, they will take it back, no questions asked.
   5. Not let you take home a kitten who has any signs of illness, not even a runny nose!
   6. Test (and be able to show proof) both the mother and father of the kittens for standard conditions that can exist within the breed. Testing is essential and this is one corner breeders should not cut.  Also be careful that the all of the breeding cats are being tested and not just a select few.  Most breeding cats are tested once per year or every other year.
   7. Give you a pedigree and registration papers, even if the papers follow after the spay/neuter of the kitten
   8. Require you to spay/neuter the kitten if not done so previously
   9. Not charge you a high price for the adoption of an older kitten/adult.  And, an older kitten or adult should already be spayed/neutered.
  10. Want your information, or questions you, about various situations of your life.  These kittens should be like family to the breeder and they should want to know about you as well.  Remember, you aren't just buying a new car.

Sometimes you just have to go with your gut!  If you simply have a bad feeling about it....tell them thanks but no thanks.  There are plenty of breeders out there to find a good relationship/cattery, and you aren't buying a new car, but a family member, so don't settle!

Do realize these are just our opinions, based on our years of experience with good & bad breeders.  Finally, just because you are purchasing a "pet" doesn't mean you shouldn't put great thought, care and investigation into the people from whom you are considering.  Best of luck finding a new feline addition for your family!